Mahashivratri

Mahashivratri signifies spiritual awakening and the triumph of light over darkness, when the northern hemisphere is positioned in a way that causes a natural, intense surge of energy in the human system, assisting in spiritual growth. This night of Shiva commemorates the union of Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati and is marked by all-night vigils, meditation, and the chanting of “Om Namah Shivaya.”

That I can celebrate Mahashivratri in Varanasi, the earthly abode of Lord Shiva, is the crowning gift of my transcendence on this epic journey; how fitting that this spiritual pilgrimage throughout India reaches its crescendo on this auspicious night.

*All over the city groups of pilgrims gathered and moved about the city in celebration and worship*

The day begins with karma cleansing in the Ganga. Karola has told me for days that she would bathe in the Ganga — how could I not join her? Despite the garbage floating in the waters, and who knows what else, it actually looked somewhat clear. I could not pass up this opportunity to wipe away sins and deepen my connection with Divine Mother.

Mahashivratri begins for me with karma cleansing

At dusk I set off along the riverbanks toward Kashi Vishwanath Temple, which is one of the twelve Jyotirlinga shrines and the spiritual heart of Varanasi. People arrive by boat and by land. More than 1 million residents, pilgrims, and tourists celebrate Mahashivratri in Varanasi annually, with 1.16 million devotees having visited the Kashi Temple in a single day in 2025. By the size of the crowds gathering, this day would see even larger numbers.

*Pilgrims arriving by boat along the Ganges*

I tried entering the temple at a few different gates guarded by police and got turned away each time. As a foreigner I had to go through special channels, which I would do another day, for some force pulled me onward through the crowds. It would be madness inside the temple, and no way did I want to get caught in a three-hour line with no escape, so I kept walking down narrow lanes to wherever fate took me.

These narrow passageways go on forever throughout Varanasi, twisting this way and that with no seeming way out; cows, dogs, and shopkeepers of all type line the sides. Scooters race at you from either end. Look where you step!

*It feels like we are getting somewhere magical*

To my astonishment, I soon arrived at the Samadhi of Lahiri Mahasaya. For me, this was nothing less than a miracle. I had come to Varanasi in large part seeking deeper attunement with this greatest of masters who revitalized the ancient Kriya Yoga tradition for modern times as was handed down to him by Mahavatar Babaji. Lahiri Mahasaya was Yogananda’s paramaguru and one of the Great Masters in the lineage of gurus who sent me on this sacred journey and who all help me daily on my spiritual path.

It was here, in holy Varanasi, that Lahiri Mahasaya carried out his God-ordained duties as a householder master yogi, showing others that it was possible to achieve liberation even while immersed in worldly duties. He fulfilled the will of God cheerfully, even though he preferred joining Babaji’s unique band of followers in the Himalayas.

*Lahiri Mahasaya, his great-grandson, and his grandson*

I entered this sacred shrine and joined others already deep in meditation. I arrived just in time, for within minutes a ceremony began honoring Lahiri Mahasaya, his grandson and his great-grandson. Special pujas and decorating of the shrine took place. At one point we were invited to enter the shrine and pour holy water into the Shiva Lingam, which symbolized devotion, purification and the cooling of Lord Shiva’s intense cosmic energy.

*After adorning the shrine and pouring holy water in the Shiva Lingam*

Needless to say, I experienced some very intense and personal moments during my meditation before Lahiri Mahasaya, and in a neighboring chamber, Mahavatar Babaji. I could not believe this had all happened without my even planning to come here on this evening. The blessings flowed through every atom of my being and blossomed in the joy and love I felt for the whole universe.

*Passionate celebrations broke out on many side streets and ghats*

Walking home, I stopped to join in Kirtan along side streets and ghats. At Dashashwamedh Ghat, of all things, I got a much-needed massage…I still don’t know how that happened.

People hunkered down for the all-night vigils. Yogis advised devotees. Strangers and sadhus greeted me everywhere. The Cosmic Dancer performed the Tandava!