I visited Sarnath twice while in the Varanasi region, once with Karola when she was still in town and the second time when I just had to get out of Varanasi. I had been staying at The Tandon Lodge overlooking the Ganges for eight days running, and the cramped quarters, coupled with the dirty streets and lack of open space, made me feel a little ill.

Don’t get me wrong! I absolutely love Varanasi and enjoyed my stay at Tandon Lodge. But I needed space after living on such narrow, filth-infested alleyways for so long. And what better place than nearby Sarnath, which was just a joyful, 30-minute Rickshaw ride away! I needed to feel that Emptiness that Lord Buddha taught us about.

Sarnath is where Lord Buddha preached his first sermon — “Turning the Wheel of Dharma” — to five ascetics. The massive Dhamek Stupa marks the spot where this sermon took place. It sits among a field of ancient ruins where many magnificent monasteries and temples once stood. This moment initiated the Buddha’s ministry and laid the foundation for the spread of his teachings, encapsulating the essence of Buddhist philosophy – the Four Noble Truths and the Noble Eightfold Path.

After walking among the ruins, pondering how empires and time have crushed the mightiest of man’s makings, I stood near some Buddhist monks meditating beneath a tree and stared at the Dhamek Stupa. Standing at over 40 meters in height, the stupa was built in the 5th century by the great Mauryan Emperor Ashoka. It holds a significant place in Buddhist history and legacy as its inception marks an important moment in the spread of Buddhism, as Ashoka, following his conversion to Buddhism, went on a mission to propagate the teachings.

After circling the stupa three times, I marveled at the intricate carvings and motifs chiseled into its cylindrical shape. The stupa’s solid stone foundation is embellished with delicate designs, depicting scenes from the life of the Buddha and various Buddhist symbols, offering a glimpse into the artistic mastery of ancient artisans.

Not far away we found a large statue of Buddha next to the Wat Thai Temple. Once off the busy main road, lovely gardens abounded to offer the weary wanderer refuge from the transitory nature of our busy lives, where we spend so much energy running around to fill the empty spaces of time, rather than just closing our eyes and delving into the infinite realm of peace within and accepting life the way it is.

On my second visit I really looked forward to just chilling in the Garden of Spiritual Wisdom. To my delight, I was the only visitor in its spacious grounds; only a few groundskeepers sat under trees or watered vegetation. Stone paths led through lovely gardens and sanctuaries for peace and meditation. I followed along the paths for awhile, reading the way of wisdom, and then took off my shoes and went into the grass to further view more stone engravings.

This was exactly what I needed. God, Guru, and my spiritual team of Great Masters have cared for me so well on this trip, providing all that my soul has ever sought. As further refuge, I had booked a hotel about four kilometers away from Sarnath in the middle of nowhere. It didn’t have a kitchen. Not this again. At Tandon Lodge in Varanasi it was difficult to find a nearby restaurant, and now there was only one across the street. I decided to give it a go…

What a delight!! I sat down to the most delicious meal of my trip thus far. To top it off, the young owner of the place, Adarsh, asked me about a book I was reading; we launched into a lengthy, inspired conversation that lasted into the night. We became great friends. He invited me for dinner the last night before leaving for Ellora and Ajanta Caves — that last night I had the most amazing Chana Masala of my life!! The flavors just exploded in my mouth…

I ended up eating all of my meals here. Thank you, Adarsh! Thank you, Lord Buddha, for the sanctuary you provide!! And, of course, thank you to the kitchen staff that blew me away with their service, friendship and meals!!