Varanasi forever bends its folded hands to Mother Ganga, grateful for the enlightenment that guides seeking souls along her narrow streets. Also known as Kashi — derived from the Sanskrit Kash (“to shine”) — this City of Lights remains in a perpetual state of enlightenment along its steep ghats, in its temples, and glowing on the faces of a people residing in the spiritual heart of India. From early morning to late evening one can hear prayers, chants, devotional songs and Kirtan rising up from the effervescent mist of the river, enchanting all who come near the sacred waters.

Karola and I arrived to spend a few days here together before parting ways. I would stay on for another week while she traveled back to lovely Dwarahat. After arrival we decided to walk along the river to witness aarti (ceremony of light) at the various ghats along the way. Each bend around the embankment revealed another mural, ghat, or food stand offering nourishment.

We eventually stopped at Ganga Ghat and found a place to sit on the steps. Throngs of worshipers come down every sunset to the river to share in communal worship. It is a festival of God that never ends, the lights of oil lamps burning forever in our hearts. People of all ages wait patiently for the ceremony to begin. And then the music and festivities carry us away…

When the ceremony finished, we followed the mass of bodies pushing upwards to higher ground, often coming to a standstill as daredevil cyclists and scooter maniacs drove into the crush of pedestrians. We stopped at a restaurant with windows overlooking the street and enjoyed watching the mob scene while delighting in Aloo Ghobi, roti and soup. Following narrow streets back to the river, I did a funky little dance move to some music young men were playing, and one young guy quickly jumped up to greet us and lead us to a spot overlooking a crematorium.

Some of these fires have burned for centuries. In the coming days I would see families carrying deceased relatives on wooden stretchers to the flames, which many believed granted moksha (liberation from rebirth).

The next morning I stepped out on our large terrace to witness the sun rising over the river. We were fortunate to have quiet lodgings overlooking Mother Ganga and located down such narrow passageways that no traffic could come to disturb my peaceful slumber.

This ideal location opened us up to the locals all around us. Deciding on an early-morning stroll along the river, I passed the temple below and had a fun talk with the young students who worship here every day.

And then I turned up steps that led into the unknown and cheerfully got lost for hours on tiny passageways, passing murals that brought to life many mythological tales and stories deeply important to this city of Lord Shiva. I felt that all of my trip had led me to this point, and that I was riding the crest of a wave into the far reaches of an Infinite ocean of Bliss…

The friendly gentleman who lives with his family at this place informed me that Mahashivratri (Great night of Shiva) would be happening in two days! What great fortune to be here! And to think that I had planned on coming earlier but that some forces beyond my control had changed my plans. Varanasi is Lord Shiva’s earthly abode! The Cosmic Dancer would dance all night on this most sacred evening.

Yes, everything about this trip had led me here, to this dance, to the ever-flowing dance with the universe. What a night it would be!