After some much-needed rest at the YSS Chennai and Ranchi Ashrams, I set off with my friend and fellow devotee Karola by train for Bodh Gaya — a deeply spiritual town where Buddha attained enlightenment under the Bodhi Tree about 2,500 years ago. With great thanks to Guruji and Kiran Lamaji — who I will introduce in our next post as the “Laughing Buddha” — we had accommodations at Daijokyo Temple, which is right next to the largest Buddha statue I have ever seen

We rose early one morning to walk in predawn darkness to the Mahabodhi Temple, where we found a place to meditate under the Bodhi Tree. At 6:00 am devotees surrounded not only the tree but the whole temple; regular visitors, nuns, monks, and other Buddhists erect small tents or lay out large tarps, carpets, and mats to stake out their territory and have a permanent place of worship at this sacred spot. A steady stream of visitors circles the temple chanting mantras and prayers to Buddha, as well as enter the temple to worship a large gilded Buddha statue.

After a deep meditation, we returned to Daijokyo Temple for a nice breakfast before jumping into our rickshaw to visit sacred locations that mark Buddha’s journey to enlightenment. This journey took us across dried-up rivers and vast stretches of farmland before we passed through impoverished villages on our way to Dungeshwari Cave, where Buddha meditated and fasted for six years before enlightenment. I dreamed of wearing my kidney belt as we bounced over jarring roads that rattled our bones.

Our wonderful driver parked at the base of the mountain while we climbed some distance to the cave. Along the way we passed many poor, impoverished souls begging for money, as well as resourceful entrepreneurs who tried anything to raise some cash, including carrying people up the mountain. I spared them the weight of my heavy load!

At the cave we absorbed the powerful energy, moving about the grounds as a large group of visitors left. Soon we had the entire cave to ourselves, except for the one Sannyasi who aided visitors. After some meditation we spoke with him and learned he was a 27th-generation Sannyasi from the region. Wow!

Our next visit was to Sujata Stupa and then Sujata Temple, where is located the tree where a humble tribal woman and milkmaid named Sujata fed a famished Buddha after his six years of extreme fasting in the cave, giving him the strength to continue to the Bodhi Tree and attain enlightenment. It was through this experience that he learned extreme behavior would not end suffering, but that the Middle Way of moderation was the best path forward.

While at the Sujata Stupa I struck up a conversation with a local educator who begged me to visit the local school. I love children so was happy to visit. I did not have the funds they needed, but this wonderful school provides housing and an education for very disadvantaged children.

We then had a wild ride through town in congested traffic. Rickshaws are fun. While jammed in a mishmash of cars, motorcycles, buses, tractors, and trucks you can carry on a conversation with all the other happy people around you! We visited some more temples. There are over 30 Buddhist temples and monasteries in small Bodh Gaya.

I absolutely loved the Tara Devi Temple, which is a three-story tantric house of worship where you can work your way up the main temple, circle tantric shrines on each floor, and at the top have an incredible view of the whole region.

What a day! Thank you, Karola, for being such a fun and impassioned visitor of these sacred points.