Girivalam, or Giri Pradakshina, involves walking clockwise around sacred Arunachala Mountain. This 14-kilometer, barefoot walk is a holy rite that should be performed with devotion, humility, and a focus on self-purification. Pilgrims make several stops at eight important shrines along the way. Since Arunachala Mountain is the physical manifestation of Lord Shiva, a reverent stroll around the mountain can connect you with powerful spiritual energy — so powerful, in fact, that it can help release your bad karma and relax the mind.

I had plenty of karma I needed to release; what’s more, I could use the exercise, so early one morning I set off on the walk a little after 6:00 am. I had imagined hiking a trail through lovely greenery with stops at lofty boulders and hidden caves; instead, the trail led pilgrims along the road that circled the mountain, past sadhus begging for money and monkeys foraging through garbage. Many shrines both large and small appeared frequently.

I didn’t know how long my feet would hold out on the pavement, but if these young kids ahead of me could do it, I had no reason to complain. I started chanting mantras every time a sadhu reached his hand out for money, which kept a steady stream of prayer emitting from my lips. I gave what I had in small change but soon had nothing left? What could I do? I stayed focused on devotion and humility and hoped for the best.

I must admit that I replaced worshipful pauses at the holy shrines with pitstops at the many tea stands that lined the way. At the halfway point I was delighted to see a Yogoda Satsanga Society tent with large, framed pictures of Mahavatar Babaji and Paramahansa Yogananda. I went in and spoke for some time with the young man managing sales of books and assorted goods. I bought a small booklet and an attractive string of mala beads for counting my Kriyas.

Eventually, I encircled the whole mountain successfully and came to the Arunachalesvara Temple. I completed the journey and took a much-needed rest after walking a congested stretch of road that challenged my bare feet. I don’t know how much karma I burned, but I enjoyed the many viewpoints of the mountain as the sun rose in the sky.

Later that day I connected with a local woman, Soly, I had met the previous day at a restaurant where we shared a table. She sat beneath a picture of Guruji and Babaji, so I told her that was my Guru, and her eyes lit up. Although she was a devout follower of Sri Ramana Maharshi, she had a deep connection with Babaji. We had a wonderful conversation about spiritual matters, and before long she told me about a saint who lived nearby and from whom we could receive darshan the next day.

“How can I get there,” I asked.

“I’ll take you,” she said. What kindness! We met at the entrance to Ramana Ashram and took a rickshaw on a 30-minute ride into deep country. Farmers walked along the dirt roads with livestock or drove farm machinery. A majestic mountain stood in the distance, beyond palm and mango trees as the sun set in the azure sky. We finally stopped at a house where Soly’s friend greeted us. Turns out he was a devotee of Aum Amma and took great care of her.

I was surprised to see so many Westerners meditating on the porch as we waited to enter the house. Apparently, this was a local group of expats who came here frequently. Once inside, there was chanting before Soly’s friend brought Aum Amma out from a side room. She was obviously in samadhi, a complete state of ecstasy. For the next hour she sat in a chair with her eyes fixed on the spiritual eye, never blinking once and never shifting her gaze. She emitted powerful spiritual vibrations, and as she was showered with bushels of flowers, she took them in her hands and flung them toward those seated before her.

Darshan is a cherished Indian tradition. Darshan means to see and to be seen. It is a reciprocal experience. To be in the mere presence of such a holy one is an electrifying experience — one that cannot be easily understood until you have lived it. That Soly was so kind to share this experience with me, a complete stranger, touches me deeply. Thank you, Soly, for your kindness and a journey to the divine I will never forget! I hope to see you again in Tiruvannamalai and deeply respect your devotion and wisdom.