The Artists of Hoysala Architecture

Words cannot convey the astonishing craftsmanship found among the temples of the 12th Century Hoysala Empire around the region of Karnataka, nor can pictures capture the epic scope of art blending into architecture in tribute to many deities, mythological figures, and religious texts. It is no wonder that the artists who did this work were well-respected during their time. Many of them traveled from temple to temple to spend their lives dedicated to this craft; their artistic signatures can be seen even today beneath some of the work.

Layer upon layer of artistic wonder
Look Within!

The deeper I gazed into these glimpses of the past, the more I thought about these artists and the patience and dedication they invested into their work. It is unimaginable today. The more temples I visited, the more I could see the signature work of particular artists — patterns repeating themselves across vast stretches of Karnataka.

Gopuram entrance to the temple grounds. This tower resembles those found in Hampi because it was reconstructed in the 14th Century after the original 12-century Hoysala style one was destroyed

At the Chennakeshava temple in Belur, several separate buildings spread across a large courtyard comprise the compound, which one enters beneath a seven-story tower called the Gopuram. Similar towers are seen in Hampi and other parts of Karnataka. Once inside, the view opens up onto a vast compound of architectural wonder.

Main temple near the entrance
View of main temple looking toward the entrance

I spent hours marveling at this pinnacle of artistic achievement, as well as put some time into meditation beneath the cool shade of ancient halls. These rich monuments of the past emit strong vibrations. Once done communicating with the ancient gods of architecture, I hopped on the bus back to Halebidu to check out a few of the smaller temples off the beaten path quite close to my hotel. I was in for quite a surprise.

First, a few more photos from the Chennakeshava temple in Belur:

Yogi Bigfoot was here!

Once I figured out which bus to get on at the chaotic bus station in Belur — with about ten kind people jumping in by the end to help the crazy white guy — I walked up the main road about 500 meters from my hotel and then cut onto dirt roads that led me through farm houses and vast fields. A wonder of the world suddenly appeared next to a large garbage pile and a couple of cows and dogs. I entered to find that I was the only visitor! I had the whole place to myself.

This temple dates back to the 12th Century
Ancient writings

As I moved amongst the buildings, I saw movement at the front gate. A group of beautifully dressed women were entering the temple grounds. I had actually taken a picture of them from afar 230 kilometers away at the Belur Temple. As they gathered around one of the smaller buildings, I asked if I could take their picture. They obliged. When I finished, they asked me to join them. What fun we had!

This photo happened spontaneously

After looking around a bit more, I went down the dirt road again and saw a gem hidden away in the distance. When I entered here, I was alone again, until I heard a voice coming from inside. When I went in, a young man was lounged near the entrance talking on his phone and studying from school books. It looked like he was squatting here.

On my way to the third temple of the day — that bird is about to start pecking the cow in the head

The interior of the temple blew me away, and I enjoyed the cool air as I just let the magnificence absorb into my own reflection. How uplifting! What a magnificent day.

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