Who could ever come to Hampi without paying tribute to the lord of the monkeys and Rama’s best friend? Hanuman, born on neighboring Anjanadri Hill, met Rama on Matanga Mountain where I have been enjoying incredible sunrises and sunsets. His monkey print is all over this place. Today was my last chance to climb the 575 steps to the pinnacle of Anjanadri Hill and bow to the beloved monkey god of India, forever celebrated for his loyalty, selfless service, immense strength and unwavering devotion.

One of my favorite songs is a rap tribute to Hanuman performed by MC Yogi and Krishna Das:

Hanuman G, son of the wind
Lord of the monkeys, Rama’s best friend
You eliminate illusion and destroy all sin
And you’re known as Shiva’s incarnation
Champion of truth with the thunderbolt body
The mighty monkey god who embodies bhakti
You’re the breath of Ram, Prana Shakti
You achieve victory like the movie Rocky…

I climbed aboard the “ferry” to cross the 1/4 mile distance to the other side of the river and waited for 20 minutes for enough passengers to show up. A gruff man and two young kids ran this dilapidated boat with a two-stroke engine that puttered along on its last breaths. On the other side, known as “Hippy Island,” I rented a scooter and bounced over rocks to the main road, where I crossed lush green fields surrounded by rocky hills to explore a few hippy outposts before ascending to the temple of devotion and courage:

You carry a club to smash the thugs
You’re the perfect servant, the embodiment of love
You’re the face of Grace and your heart is pure
You make the whole demon race tremble when you roar
In service of the Lord you’re the demon destroyer
Also known as the king of all warriors
You’re compassion in action devotion in motion
With the strength to leap the length of the ocean

The usual cluster of shacks selling souvenirs, jewelry, and memorabilia sat at the base of the mountain, and a long line of passionate worshipers slowly worked their way up the mountain. It was stop-and-go all 575 steps, past old men stooped and catching their breath, dads carrying their kids and elderly women barely able to walk, clinging onto railings and pushing on with the determination of Hanuman. Once at the top, the historic Kishkindha region (Vanara Empire from the Ramayana) spread out in all directions below.

Hanuman G, you have the power
To be as small as a cat or as tall as a tower
You devour lust, ignorance, envy and greed
You succeed and never cower in the hour of need
You leapt to Lanka and reassured Sita
Don’t worry bout a thing cuz Rama’s gonna free ya
You burned down Lanka when your tail was on fire
And to serve Lord Ram is your only desire

Devotees passed through the temple, perched on an edge of the steep hill, and smashed coconuts beneath a tree of worship. Joyous groups sat in clusters all about the small courtyard, and plenty of friendly people approached and asked, “From?” I had a great time talking to one and all. It was work getting up here but no one complained. All enjoyed celebrating Hanuman — the great embodiment of love.

Hanuman G, there’s no monkey greater,
But sometimes you have funny behavior
Once when Sita gave you a necklace
You bit it with your teeth like it was your breakfast
Then Sita asked “Hanuman, what was wrong with the mala?”
You replied that you were just tryin to find Rama
Then someone said “Hanuman, is Ram inside of you”
And in that moment you revealed your Truth
You tore open your chest and inside your heart
Ram was shining like a diamond inside the dark

After savoring the view atop several large boulders, I made the descent with a mass of bodies jammed along the steep decline. Little children and old men cried, “Jai Shri Ram! Jai Shri Ram!” All week I greeted strangers in town with that refrain, to which they always flashed a smile and repeated it back to me. Even though I stuck out with my pale skin and blue eyes, the crowd embraced me as one of their own. I am forever grateful, dear India!

You said when you’re separate that’s when you serve
But when you’re connected you and Ram merge
You’re the mighty monkey of the epic Ramayana
You repeat Ram’s name the holy Ramanama
Singing Kirtan with the cymbals in your hand
Going on and on like a one man band
Singing Shri Ram Jai Ram Jai Jai Ram
Rocking on and on till the break of dawn

Rock on, Hanuman, Rock on! Jai Shri Ram!