Soon after waking up and performing my morning routine I hit the streets and figured there’s got to be some kind of festival going on…colorful people engaged joyfully everywhere, from right outside my window to all around the main temple and along the boulevards, singing, chanting, flying kites, and gathering in large, boisterous groups. I later found out that there is indeed a celebration going on, but I can’t remember the reason. Who needs a reason? Just get out there and get in the flow.


My mission for the day: Ride the river in one of those giant woven baskets I saw shipwrecked on shore yesterday. To get to the launching pad I wound through the very narrow paths of Hampi’s small center — there are few vehicles because entrance to the center is strictly enforced — and hit the road to Hampi’s grand bazaar, which stretches for kilometers down vast boulevards bordered by massive stone pavilions that served as shop fronts selling textiles, jewels, horses, spices, and exotic goods of the Vijayanagara Empire. Now visiting families sleep under these structures between raucous religious celebrations and set up shop on neighboring streets selling fruits, vegetables, assorted nuts and grains, fabrics, fruit drinks and jewelry.


After following a walkway that ran between and under massive boulders, I came to a landing near the river where mobs of people gathered at the bank to board coracles. I just followed them all down to the water and stood there for a minute or so until a nearby group shouted in a friendly manner, “Hey! We’re waiting for you.” Oh, ok. I got in and away we went…

On either side of the riverbank we passed mini temples and stone meditation rooms. In Hampi you can’t throw a stone without hitting a temple. Or your head on a boulder. Our mischievous driver took us into an enclave of boulders and left us stranded there.



After that ride I worked my way back over volcanic rock and past more ruins of temples to Matanga Hill, where I caught the sunset with a large group of traveling students from the souther region of Kerala known as God’s country (really? Then what is this place called??). One of the students ran to catch up with me and made the difficult climb up ancient steps to the top with me, engaging me in a lively conversation. At the top we met his friends and many classmates gathered at a small shrine where Hanuman met Rama.


The sunset was spectacular, and Matanga Hill offered incredible views of Hampi and the entire surrounding area. We could see Anjanadri Hill and birthplace of Hanuman, which I would later visit. Other temple grounds spread below us and vanished into the lush jungle land that extended to the furthest reaches of the horizon.

But for now I was knocked out! I made my way back to town, stopped at a rooftop restaurant for some banana flower curry and chapati, then stumbled home and into bed to the sound of Om rising from the Main Temple.









Leave a comment