From the moment I arrived in Hampi, I knew that this would be a special experience unlike any before. My host led us into the small center of town over a bumpy road. We came around a stone wall and before us opened up a scene from 600 years ago: the Virupaksha Temple rose up in all its splendor, dominating the skyline and featuring a massive, nine-tiered eastern gopuram (tower) with intricate carvings. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the original 7th Century complex now consists of a number of smaller towers, courtyards, pillared walkways and ruins that extend up the hill behind in numerous variations of worship to many Hindu gods and goddesses.

My host got off his bike and said. “We’re here.” He parked right where pilgrims were walking to the temple and cows wandered about. I hurried to get my bag out of the car but he said, “Take it easy, man. Chill.” Raja turned out to be a very chill man indeed. In fact, “take it easy” was the password for our Wifi.

My sparse room was only 30 feet away, probably the closest building to the temple grounds. I could hear chanting from inside the large courtyard. Families dressed in the most beautiful, colorful garb kept arriving throughout the day, and that evening filled the inner courtyard as lights shone from the main tower. The sound of “Om” came steadily from a loudspeaker, and after meditating under a side chamber with intricately carved pillars, I walked across the courtyard and was approached by a large group of children who befriended me. We had such fun playing and sharing names and funny little dances.

The next morning I explored the ruins that lay everywhere above and beyond the complex, slowly walking across huge sloping rock to the different sites, one after another…a whole ancient city here to explore freely and uninterrupted. I could walk into the buildings, peer into the shrines, sit and meditate, take pictures, and simply stand back to absorb it all. Monkeys hopped about in mischievous glee.

It’s impossible for me to describe everything that is here. The temple has been functioning uninterruptedly since it was built in the 7th Century. Pilgrims and worshipers come and go from 5 am till 9 at night. Many sleep outside under the ruins of the old bazaar that stretches nearly a mile east to many other temple grounds and magnificent sites. The spiritual vibrations never stop. During the Vijayanagara Expansion (14th-16th Century)  the temple grew into the grand complex it is today under rulers like Deva Raya II (through chieftain Lakkana Dandesha) and Krishnadevaraya, who added ornate halls and gateways.

That evening I strolled to the top of the hill and went to Sunset Point. Hundreds of other families and groups of friends gathered and sat amongst the ancient ruins or on stone benches facing west. I found a perch on top of the edge of a cliff and watched as the sun slowly sank beneath surrounding mountains and lush forests of palm trees, intermixed with large boulder formations. It just blew me away. Soon I was joined by a group of about 20 monkeys that chose to sit with me, some of them walking the thin line between me and the edge of the cliff. They can be aggressive but seemed chill enough that I relaxed and enjoyed their company!

I had a late dinner in the tiny town lined with artisans’ shops selling fabrics, jewelry, incense and oils, and other artifacts. I sat in an open rooftop restaurant surrounded by numerous temples and compounds dedicated to Hindu gods and goddesses. The people lived in a continual state of worship — both inwardly and outwardly — and expressed modesty, curiosity and gratitude. Even though this is the most foreigners I have seen anywhere, I drew people to me wherever I went. I may be traveling alone, but I am never lonely. What a remarkable place that will require several days of exploration and discovery just to skim its surface. I can’t wait!!