Ravi picked us up at the hotel in the morning and off we went on the motorcycle into the jubilant heart of Vrindavan: Banke Bihari Temple. This temple is a spiritual haven for devotees of Lord Krishna and one of the most visited temples in India. We were about to find this out in the most intense and mind-shattering way.

After Ravi dropped us off within 100 meters of Banke Bihari Temple, we followed the crowds toward the giant steeple rising above the rooftops of surrounding buildings. As we neared a gated entrance to a nearby street we saw people leaving their shoes in disorderly piles within metal containers. We figured there was no way we’d find our shoes again so wisely carried them with us. At the gate mobs of people leaving and coming crushed against each other and moved nowhere, providing us with a foreshadowing of what was to come. I felt like I was going to a rock concert. We managed to squeeze around the side and avoid the main crush of bodies.

The density of the crowd only increased as we followed the narrow gauntlet of storefronts selling offerings, jewelries, and all sorts of spiritual memorabilia. Groups linked themselves together by throwing their arms on the shoulders of the person in front of them. We wended our way to the entrance of the temple and left our shoes at a shop bordering the narrow passageway inside. A kind woman explained to us how to get back to retrieve our shoes.

Then the real fun began. As people funneled inside the surge carried us upon a wave of bodies pushing forward toward the gated shrine. Once through the archways the temple opened as a giant square space with surrounding balconies and alcoves. At this point there was no control over our movements; we just flowed forward with the surge of devotees hollering their prayers and chants. Everyone wanted to get to the front to leave their offering or toss it as close as possible at the shrine.

We got carried to a side alcove and managed to find an empty space where a family with three small children surged up to us: talk about brave parents! We exchanged smiles, took some photos and then just hung back to watch the masses get carried through from one side and out the other. It was truly remarkable how calm and accommodating everyone behaved. This surge of humanity up to the temple, inside to toss offerings, and out the back continued all morning. Everywhere people cried prayers and, “Radhe! Radhe!” and “Banke Bihore Lal Ki Jai” (Victory to Lord Banke Bihare).

I wish I had the time and space to explain what is going on here, and in my book I will, but let’s just say this complete devotion flows directly from the heart of these people. They pray daily to Krishna and other avatars of God; despite the misery of the world in many places they manage to transcend and find joy. The closest we come to this fervent display in the West is not through religion but in idol worship of rock musicians and movie stars.

Prem Mandir: Temple of Divine Love

That evening I walked the short distance from the hotel to Prem Mandir, which promised some type of light show at the temple. Thousands streamed in the same direction but in a very orderly manner. Many appeared well dressed for the occasion. I thought it would be a nightmare getting inside, but everything went smoothly, probably because once inside, we could move through the expansive 55 acres that comprised the complex. Immediately I saw the glorious temple before me, changing colors every ten seconds. It was such an awe-inspiring sight that photos cannot do it justice.

I followed the crowd as we went clockwise around the temple. On our perimeter were elaborate displays and statues depicting events from Krishna’s life here in Vrindavan and Mathura. This is where Krishna descended 5,000 years ago and performed divine lilas (cosmic play). The fervor with which the gopis (cowgirls) adored the young Krishna and displayed pure, unconditional love hasn’t diminished in 5,000 years.

And let’s not forget the great warrior Arjuna; Krishna (the Supreme Self) drove the chariot while Arjuna (the soul) did battle in the Kurukshetra War for self-mastery and victory over dualism, overcoming the power of maya through pure discrimination and consciousness of the inner soul (self-realization).