This morning I had a remarkable ride from Dwarahat to Ranikhet. After a quick breeze through the quiet Sunday morning town of Dwarahat, I hit a “main road” that was actually newly paved and a lot of fun to ride, winding through densely forested mountains and tiny villages. I knew this couldn’t last forever, and sure enough, my navigation soon dumped me onto a horrendous road that was barely passable. I puttered past traditionally dressed women carrying bundles on their heads and the occasional cow. This then led to switchbacks and dramatic turns and rises up mountains until the vast valley spread below me and I could see range upon range stretching to infinity. What glory to behold!

As I came into Ranikhet on twisting mountainous roads I came to an intersection and had no idea which way to go. My navigation lost its mind with so many small roads and choices that it led nowhere. A friend elderly man came up to me, chatting amicably in broken English, and then directed me up a gnarly gashed bumpy road. I got lost a few times but finally found my hotel perched on top of the mountain overlooking town. Wow! But my room was absolutely freezing — I gladly paid $5 for a small electric heater to use.

I then went to visit Haidakhan Temple, which touched me deeply in such an authentic and simple way. My inner pace has slowed considerably and I move quietly, slowly (at least for me). Mahavatar Babaji has been front and center in my consciousness ever since Dwarahat and well before then, so I was overjoyed to meditate inside the temple and receive blessings. According to the teachings here, Babaji manifested most recently from 1970 to 1984, appearing as a youth of 18 or 20 at the foot of Kumaon Mount Ali Kailash at Haidakhan and initiated this temple in 1976 as well as built eight others along the bank of the River Ganga.

As Paramahansa Yogananda explained in the Autobiography of a Yogi, Babaji manifests in human form from time to time for the benefit of mankind. He comes to revive the Sanatan Dharma and to transform every human being, laying stress on three basic precepts of Dharma: Truth, Simplicity, and Love. He has predicted widespread physical destruction, revolution and change as we emerge from Kali Yuga. He promises a new world and new age after the destruction. How many of us have been blessed with his help already!

I then rode around the incredibly difficult to navigate town/region and found the I Love Ranikhet sign. At last! This was a very odd spot I found riding through a military base and not sure if I would get stopped for trespassing. Was I riding down a sidewalk? Restricted area? No idea.

I returned to my hotel and enjoyed a late lunch in the empty restaurant. I seem to be the only guest in this rather nice hotel. The vivacious chef/waiter/bell hop offered me a spot of wine but I politely refused. Everyone is so friendly here!