Pandukholi sits atop the mountain of Babaji’s Cave and so many wondrous miracles and events dating back to the ancient past. Part of the history of the monumental Mahabharata text played out here; the Pandavas chose this location to hide out in the thirteenth year of their exile. Pandukholi means “Pandu’s shelter.” Many well known sages, including legendary Maharaj, performed rigorous sadhana in this area, and it is very possible that Mahavatar Babaji roams this natural refuge with his band of followers to this day.

Situated at 8,800 feet, the mountain temple is surrounded by dense forests and incredible views of towering Himalayan mountains and steep cliffs. We started our trek on a gently sloping trail that quickly steepened as we progressed, stopping often to enjoy the awe-inspiring views. At one point we could see Dunagiri Temple which we visited yesterday perched atop its mountain home.

As we neared the peak we could feel the vibrations strengthen, and the forest opened up to a meadow that led to Swargpuri Pandavkholi Ashram. There we paid our respects at the various shrines and sites dedicated to the Pandavas and the five brothers. Nanjun invited me to join him for meditation in a small hut that featured an altar of Babaji. What a meditation!

Afterwards, the wonderful young man who lived up here as caretaker, Vinodh, offered us tea and lunch, inviting us into his living quarters and making us such a simple yet delicious dish that we had to have a second helping! Nanjun translated for us as he patiently answered our questions. He has been living up here for a year. His brother and mother carry supplies up for him. His peaceful demeanor reflected the still tranquility of this sacred setting.

The climb down to Babaji’s Cave proved to be treacherous and very steep. We greeted two Indian men climbing up and gave them some water. At Babaji’s Cave we enjoyed a short meditation before they closed it up for the day. At the bottom of the mountain we had tea with our favorite Amma who is such a wonderful bundle of energy and always busy with some domestic task in the outer courtyard.

I forgot to mention yesterday that we visited Dunagiri Temple on the way back to Dwarahat. We climbed 500 steps to reach the temple, which is nearly 1,000 years old. The temple is dedicated to the Goddess Durga and hosts many weddings, where marriage parties tie red ribbons as offerings and appeals for blessings.

I want to thank my dear friends Nanjun, Karola, and Isabel for an amazing two days! Much love!!