I rose before dawn to meditate and then make the long drive across town, over Howrah Bridge, and through a narrow passageway overflowing with the guts of humanity to Belur Math, which is headquarters of Ramakrishna Math and Ramakrishna Mission. The divine presence of both Sri Ramakrishna and his greatest disciple, Swami Vivekananda, blesses the 40-acre spread of this gorgeous complex along the banks of the Ganges.

And what a relief to arrive at these peaceful grounds. I stayed the whole morning just to enjoy the serenity — on the edge of a city perpetually strung out on hyperdrive and survival. I’ve gotten used to the pace and chaos in a way, just as I found order in the chaos of driving a motorcycle through the traffic of Leh, but this morning the tempo seemed relentless as my driver blasted his horn continuously while furiously fighting to get through every little narrow gap, past every famished cow, and beyond every congested side street. I’ve made it a habit to tip the drivers before our journey begins just to show my appreciation.

Belur Math consists of several temples, offices buildings, houses and pathways linking each lovely structure. Walking barefoot through the hazy bliss of dawn, I first visited the main temple that Swami Vivekananda built for his beloved and most enlightened guru. I meditated before an image of Sri Ramakrishna with a few other worshipers. At this hour the crowds had yet to arrive. I then sat near the mango tree where Swami Vivekananda met with various disciples and officials throughout the day, seated on a cot beneath the unfolding branches.

The room where he lived and passed from this world was located between the tree and the river; I climbed the stairs to view this sacred refuge where Swamiji enjoyed returning after his many travels spreading Ramakrishna’s unique version of Vedanta. Sri Ramakrishna taught that all were valid paths to the same ultimate reality, and that if a man’s mind was always focused on God, there was nothing left to be done and no rituals to follow. That was enough in itself.

I spent golden hours strolling peacefully about, sitting by the river or meditating under a tree. I noticed that a ferry stopped here and carried passengers to Dakshineswar Kali Temple. Oh, I wish I had known that! For those who may visit, that would be a wonderful day spent, visiting both of those places and traveling across the river to get from one to another.